Guide

Materials & care

General guidance on common fine-jewelry materials and how to look after them. For details of a particular piece, please see its product page.

Gold ring set with a row of pink stones
Precious metals

Gold

Gold purity is measured in karats. Pure 24k gold is very soft, so jewelry gold is usually alloyed with other metals for strength: 18k is 75% gold, 14k is about 58.5% and 9k is 37.5%. The other metals in the alloy also set the colour, whether yellow, white or rose.

Gold does not rust, but everyday oils and lotions can dull its shine. Rinse it in lukewarm water with a little mild soap and dry it with a soft, lint-free cloth. White gold is often finished with a rhodium plating that can wear over time and may be renewed by a jeweler.

Precious metals

Sterling silver

Sterling silver is an alloy of 92.5% silver, usually with copper. It is bright and durable, and it naturally tarnishes when exposed to air and moisture.

Wearing silver regularly helps keep tarnish away. Between wears, store it in a closed pouch or box, away from humidity, and polish it with a soft silver cloth. Avoid harsh dips on pieces with stones or oxidised details.

Silver and gold hoop earrings on a light surface
Gold ring with a leaf design
Finishes

Gold plating and vermeil

Gold-plated jewelry has a thin layer of gold bonded to another metal. Vermeil is a thicker layer of gold over sterling silver. Both give the look of solid gold at a lighter price.

Plating wears gradually with friction and contact with chemicals. Keep plated pieces away from water, perfume and cleaning products, wipe them with a soft dry cloth, and store them separately so they are not rubbed by other jewelry.

Stones

Diamonds and gemstones

Diamonds are very hard, but they can still chip from a sharp knock, and they attract grease that dulls their sparkle. Many coloured gemstones are softer and more sensitive to heat, chemicals and ultrasonic cleaners.

For most stones, a soft brush and lukewarm soapy water is the safest way to clean. Check settings now and then for loose stones, and if you are unsure how to clean a particular gem, ask a jeweler before trying.

Pair of diamond stud earrings on a dark surface
Hand wearing pearl jewelry in soft light
Organic gems

Pearls

Pearls are organic and comparatively soft, so they scratch more easily than most gemstones and can be affected by cosmetics and acids.

Put pearls on last and take them off first. After wearing, wipe them with a soft, slightly damp cloth and let them dry flat. Store them on their own, away from harder jewelry, and avoid hanging strung pearls for long periods.

Everyday habits

A short care checklist

Last on, first off

Put jewelry on after perfume and lotion, and take it off before swimming, exercise or housework.

Store pieces apart

A soft pouch or a lined box with compartments stops pieces scratching and chains tangling.

Clean gently

Lukewarm water, mild soap and a soft cloth are enough for most pieces. Dry everything before storing.